1 Painting with Jolie/Davis Paint/Annie Sloan US/Chalk Paint
1.1 What prep work is necessary before painting? Do I need to strip? Sand? Prime? Shellac?
NO stripping, No sanding, No priming, No Sealing!! Honest! Shellac is a sealer—no sealing is needed. Our paint adheres to the surface better than any primer. (Only use shellac if a bleed through problem occurs, which is very uncommon. This is an unnecessary extra step too. See the section on shellac for more details.)
Make sure your surface is free of rust (unless you want that to show through) and loose paint. Painting over loose paint will not stabilize the failing substrate. You will need to sand that.
If the surface has chipped off paint, varnish, or veneer and you want the end result to be smooth, you will need to fill in the low lying areas. We recommend using Wood Icing™--extra creamy and easier to use than typical wood putties, it is also more cost effective. Wood Icing™ can be stained or painted. If a super smooth surface isn’t necessarily desired, Jolie paint can be applied thickly, creating texture that will cover up the imperfections on the surface.
Other than that, make sure your surface is clean and free of dust, dirt and grease. Sometimes a damp cloth will suffice. Other times (like kitchen cabinets) we recommend cleaning thoroughly. Although some people choose to use dish soap, tsp or tsp alternative, we highly recommend a non-toxic cleaner that will not leave behind a residue. (Do NOT use oil soap to clean!) We have found the best cleaner to be Basic H. It is a highly concentrated, non-toxic cleaner that will not leave a residue. We recommend mixing according to the directions for degreasing and using the green scratch side of a Scotchbrite™ sponge. That abrasive sponge aids in getting the surface extra clean while slightly deglossing for the best adhesion possible.
1.2 How much will a project pot /sample pot of paint cover? How much will a quart of paint cover?
It depends on the color of paint you’ve chosen as well as the color of the piece you are painting over and the technique you are using. If you are doing a light barely-there coverage, you will get a lot more coverage than doing pure white over black and wanting completely opaque coverage. For full coverage, here are the average coverage rates.
A project/sample pot is 4 oz of paint and will cover 18-25 sf. That is equal to one very thin coat uneven coat on your front door. And you’ll need more than one coat if you want solid coverage.
A quart will cover 150-200 sf. Painting two coats on a kitchen table and 4 chairs – or – an average sized dresser and 2 end tables is achievable.
1.3 How long do you wait between coats of paint?
If you are working in ambient temperatures, as long as the paint has dried to touch, you are fine to paint a second coat. Typically this is only about 10-15 minutes so when you’ve finished the first coat, the area where you started is probably dry enough to start your second. Unlike latex paint, there is no waiting several hours between coats. If working over plastic or glossy surfaces, waiting until the first coat is fully dry is recommended which may take up to an hour.
How can you tell if it's dry enough for a second coat? Look for glossy areas-- that indicates it is still wet. If it looks dry, feel the surface with your hand. It should feel dry--you won't feel the coolness that comes from moisture still being present.
1.4 How much paint do I need to paint my kitchen cabinets?
It will vary depending upon the type and color of wood your cabinets are and the color you want to paint them. For maximum durability, we recommend doing a full coverage application to ensure there is enough paint for the wax to soak into. You can look at your square footage and know that a quart covers 150-200 square feet and buy accordingly. Or, to make things a little easier, count your doors and drawers. If you are going to paint 2-3 coats of paint doing the fronts and backs of the doors, and the surrounding box exterior, one quart will cover approximately a section of cabinets with 4-5 doors and 2-3 drawers.
Previously painted cabinets and tight grained woods like maple will require less paint than stained open grain oak cabinets which will require more paint.
If the tone of your cabinets now is close to the tone you are going to paint or you are painting them darker than their current tone, less paint will be needed. If you are going lighter than your current color a third light coat of paint may be needed for full opaque coverage.
Watch our step-by-step detailed kitchen cabinet painting tutorial on YouTube! (you'll see the old Davis Paint licensed label of Annie Sloan in the video but the new licensed label is Jolie so don't worry--Jolie is what you want!)
1.5 How do I minimize brushstrokes? Do you sand between coats of paint? What if I want a super smooth surface? Should I add water to my paint?
Unless there is something you see that you find objectionable, there is no need to sand between coats of paint or to sand before waxing. Only if you see something that isn’t to your liking do you need to sand. Even if you want a super smooth finish, it is unlikely you’ll need to sand. Instead, be sure your application is light and do 2-3 thin layers spreading out the paint as far as it will go. The more you fuss with the paint, the less smooth it gets. Don’t be a perfectionist and overwork the paint if you want a really smooth finish—you’ll get just the opposite of what you want to achieve.Watch our YouTube video about creating a smooth finish for more details.
1.6 I want a really smooth finish without brushstrokes. Should I add water to my paint?
Adding water to your paint will just minimize the coverage you get from it. Using a damp brush can create a smoother finish. The tiniest bit of water goes a really long way.
Are you sure you don’t want any brush strokes? If so and you really do want a factory sprayed look, you will need to spray your paint or use something different. You can get a very smooth, professional hand painted finish (which typically costs at least 30-50% more if you were paying someone else to do it) that feels like silk and in our opinion, much more luxurious without watering down the paint and using a brush. Come into one of our Fleurish Home locations to see and feel our pieces to decide how you want to finish your project.
1.7 When should I sand if I want to distress my piece in that manner?
It is best to sand after one coat of wax. Wait a few minutes for the wax to set up, then use 220 grit sandpaper to rub back to another layer of paint or the original surface. After sanding, apply another thin layer of wax to bring the color back to life and protect the surface properly.
If you want a highly distressed look where most of the paint will be sanded away, go ahead and sand first as the paint sands back very quickly and easily before it has been waxed. 220 is still recommended. Anything coarser creates unattractive scratch marks that does not make the piece look authentically worn.
1.8 Can I use steel wool to distress or do I have to use sandpaper? Can I use a sanding block?
Because our paint is very matte and absorbent using steel wool to distress will most likely leave dark carbon marks on your surface and is therefore not recommended. 220 sandpaper is best for distressing. You can use a sanding block if you want—you are the artisan and the final finish look is your choice! We at Fleurish Home prefer sandpaper over a sanding block because you can maintain more control over the surface area and degree to which you distress with sandpaper. We actually use very small pieces of sandpaper even when doing a large project. In our experience, we find we not only have greater control, but prettier more authentic aging and use far less sandpaper than when using larger pieces or sanding blocks.
Sanding blocks really work best for prep work rather than distressing. As an alternative to sandpaper, we recommend the Jolie sanding pads for a great compromise--more control than a block, reusable, and more substantial to hold onto than sandpaper.
Fleurish Pro Tip: You can use #0000 steel wool over your properly waxed surfaces to increase the sheen of your finish. It can also be used along with a little bit of wax to buff out accidental drink rings left on your waxed table top.
1.9 Can I wet distress instead of sanding? What about using baby wipes?
Wet distressing needs to be done on a piece that has been painted that same day to work best. We like using a Better than Cheesecloth™ towel because of the nice sturdy texture it has. Baby wipes will leave behind a residue and can also leave white streaks. We only recommend wet distressing for plastic, metal, or previously finished pieces and only in small areas. It is never a good idea to get large areas of wood really wet. Sanding is a better method for large areas of wood surfaces.
1.10 Can I paint my walls with Jolie/Chalk Paint? Do I have to seal them with wax? What about for a bathroom?
Jolie is a very matte finish paint. It works beautifully on walls and can be rolled, brushed, or troweled for different looks. You can leave it matte or finish with a coat or two of wax for a different look. Because of its very matte finish, in a bathroom you will most likely see where water has splashed so waxing might be the better choice. If a matte finish is desired, a suitable good quality wall paint would work best.
1.11 What technique is used when painting fabric?
Painting fabric can be done with Jolie because it is not a film forming paint. You are essentially dying the fabric in place by using plenty of water with the paint and building up the color slowly using 2-4 layers allowing each to dry thoroughly between coats. Natural fibers are most successful: cotton, linen, and silk. We recommend wetting the surface, then adding paint and additional water as needed to achieve a thin layer of color. After color saturation is achieved, sand lightly with 220-320 grit sandpaper and wipe with a damp cloth for a soft supple hand. A layer or two of wax can also be added after this step but will change the look and feel to something like a thin leather or vinyl. Leather and vinyl paint beautifully without added water but thin layers and adequate dry time between coats is the key to a successful end result. We do recommend wax as it will give the look, feel and protection of the original surface. Sanding is typically not necessary on leather and vinyl either.
1.12 What do you do if there is “bleed-through”?
Use shellac as it is a stain blocker and will block the tannins from continuing to bleed through. (See the section on shellac for more details.)
1.13 I just need one coat right? If I do one really good coat, will I need another coat?
You need to ask yourself what look you want to achieve as an end result and what it is you are painting to answer that question. Painting is an art, not a science and many different looks and styles are easily achieved with Annie Sloan products.
If you want solid coverage, you will need more than one coat. You will spend less time and use far less paint doing 2-3 thin coats than trying to cover completely in one coat.
1.14 Can I paint my fireplace surround? If so should I seal with wax or lacquer?
Check with your local building code as these vary by county, but Jolie Paint is not considered flammable so it will be allowed in most cases. As with any paint, it can burn and release carbon dioxide so caution should always be exercised around open flames. You don’t have to seal the paint at all if you don’t want to as it probably doesn’t get a lot of handling. You can burnish it with 400 grit sandpaper and wipe with a damp cloth if you want to create a light sheen without a sealer.
1.15 Can I paint my brick or stone fireplace? Or any brick or stone for that matter? How should I seal it?
Jolie Paint is perfect for brick and stone! To paint, we recommend dampening the surface with water. The initial pass can be done with a spray bottle or spritzer. You want the surface to be damp as it is very absorbent and by wetting it you will help the paint absorb better. Keep a container of water at the ready to dip your brush into as needed. Using an Annie Sloan natural bristle paint brush (trust me those nice fat brushes will help tremendously in getting the job done!) dip your brush into the water and paint a little on the area where you want to start to paint. You’ll work in 1-2 square foot sections. Now dip the same brush into some paint and apply to the same area where you painted your water. If the paint is grabbing and biting into the surface too hard where it is difficult to spread, dip your brush back into the water and paint some more water into that same area. This will help spread your paint. You want to build up a couple of thin layers so that it soaks into that brick or stone. You will be left with a surface that still looks like brick or stone but a new color! It will not have that gross shiny painted look from the 70s—it will be beautiful and natural looking. No need to seal with anything. Be sure to always check with your local building code if painting a fireplace as these vary by county, but Jolie Paint is not considered flammable so it will be allowed in most cases. As with any paint, it can burn and release carbon dioxide so caution should always be exercised around open flames.
1.16 Can I use a roller or sprayer to apply Jolie Paint? Do you use a roller?
Sure! You can run Jolie through a sprayer. You may or may not need to thin it depending upon the color you are using, the size tip you have on your sprayer, and the pressure you are using.
You can also roll on the paint if that is the look you like.
Fleurish Pro Tip: Because the paint dries very quickly, we sometimes will use a combination of roller and brush on large surfaces in order to get a really smooth application if that’s the look we are wanting to achieve. The pink roller kits we sell in the shop work best. Other rollers can leave weird textures or orange peel looks, similar to a poorly executed spray finish. To keep the hand brushes look, roll a thin coat of paint on the surface, then immediately brush over the surface using a paint brush loaded with a small amount of paint.
1.17 Do I really need to use a special brush to apply Jolie/Chalk Paint?
It isn’t a requirement of course but we do highly recommend using a natural bristle brush. Natural bristle brushes provide the best coverage of the paint and the Jolie Signature brushes are by far the best tool for the application of our paint. Even using just the small sized brush, you will go back to the can less often and work more quickly. If you choose to use your standard poly/nylon Purdy type latex paint brush, you most likely will need to paint at least one extra coat so the small investment in the furniture paint brush more than pays for itself in time and paint.
1.18 How do I wash my paint brush?
Because Jolie is a water-based paint, clean-up is soap and water. Rinse your brush until the water runs clear. If you are just changing colors, no need to clean further or let dry. Just squeeze out the excess water and shake out well to remove as much water as possible and you can begin painting again right away. When you are finished painting for a few hours or the day, we recommend cleaning with our Big Fat Lye™ soap. Natural bristle brushes need extra care to stay at their best. The hair can become dry and brittle causing breakage and excessive shedding so using this specially formulated soap will clean and condition your bristles without leaving a residue on them keeping your brush at its best.
1.19 Can I paint over the wax? What if I’ve waxed my piece and I change my mind about the color?
Typically the answer would be no because water based products like latex paint or poly will not adhere to wax—the wax would need to be removed first. However, the unique properties of Jolie Paint make it possible to paint over wax even though it is a water-based product! Make sure the wax has fully dried before repainting with Jolie. You might consider sanding lightly if your wax is very shiny and the cure time may be a bit longer so just be extra gentle with your piece for a couple of weeks if you’ve painted over the wax. Otherwise, it’s no problem to do so making changing your mind easy.
1.20 I want to do a paint wash technique. How much water should I add to my paint?
There isn’t one ratio that works in all situations. It depends on the color you are using, how thick your paint is, the temperature in the room and the look you want. How opaque or sheer do you want it to be? That can change your ratio drastically!
We never recommend adding water directly to your paint can. If you want to water down your paint, put it in a separate container. If you will be storing it for later use, use distilled water or it might get a little stinky. The impurities and minerals in tap water won’t be harmful but they can make for an unpleasant order if stored for an extended period in a well-sealed container. You’ll have to play around with the ratios until you find something you like. This could potentially lead to a pretty large amount of watered down paint! Instead, we recommend another method. Keep a bowl of water with you as you work. Paint a coat of plain water on the surface of your piece, then paint on some paint over the water. Now you can make adjustments on the spot. If it’s too sheer, add some more paint. If it’s too opaque, add some more water. Wipe off any excess with a towel. You can always wash it all off with a damp towel and start all over again if you need to! You have the ultimate open time and flexibility using this method.
1.21 Do I need to take a workshop? Or can I just watch some tutorials on YouTube?
No, you don’t have to take a workshop however everyone that takes a hands-on workshop finds it to be extremely valuable whether they are just starting out or have years of experience. All workshops are taught by national award winning decorative artisan and Fleurish Home owner Debra Campbell whose vast experience in the painting and decorative arts spans over two decades.
A word of caution about YouTube--anyone can make a video and although intentions are good what you are watching may not be sound advice. We do have our own YouTube channel where you can trust that what we show you is best practices and is backed by our extensive coatings knowledge.
1.22 What if I change my mind, can I remove the paint?
Sure—a paint stripper can be used to remove any wax and paint. We recommend a safe citristrip type product but only if you want to return to unfinished wood and strip past all finishes on the piece. Otherwise, if you just want to change the color, you can just paint over it with a fresh coat of Jolie Paint in a new color.
1.23 Can I paint my kitchen countertops with Jolie or Chalk Paint?
Technically yes. The paint will adhere to laminate and other countertop materials. A little extra prep is recommended if you decide to go that route. For kitchens though, just because you CAN do it doesn’t mean you maybe SHOULD do it. Although we have several clients that have done so successfully, extra caution needs to be taken in the care of a painted countertop. Like laminate countertops, avoid cutting on the surface or placing anything hot on it. Like wood countertops, avoid standing water for extended amounts of time.
2 Waxing with Jolie Finishing Wax
2.1 Do I have to wax or can I just paint? What about for outside?
Jolie paint and wax are designed to work together as a two-part system. The paint being chalky, matte, and absorbent will show burnish marks and finger prints, etc. is left unsealed. Clear Finishing Wax is designed to absorb into the layer of paint creating a finish that is cleanable, wipeable and durable. The paint can be used outside, but the wax is not meant for exteriors.
If the exterior surface will be highly used, keep in mind that any flat paint will show wear and use more than a glossier surface. You can burnish the paint with 400 grit sandpaper to add sheen and cleanability to the paint if you want. Marine grade spar varnish could also be used if a glossier surface is desired but most likely isn’t necessary.
2.2 Should I sand my paint before waxing?
You will find the wax absorbs into your paint much better if you have not sanded. Sanding the paint burnishes it, compacts it, and makes it less absorbent making the waxing process more difficult than it needs to be. This is an unnecessary extra step that creates more work.
2.3 Wax vs Varnish: Which should I use? Is the wax durable for cabinets and kitchen tables?
First of all, let me say that no coating (other than a thick epoxy which is sturdy but scratches easily) is made to have standing liquid on them. All wood surfaces, regardless of finish (stain, paint, poly, varnish, lacquer, wax, etc.) should be used in conjunction with writing pads, placemats or tablecloths, and coasters. If you don’t want to use those things, you need to find yourself a stone, metal or plastic surface that can hold up to that kind of usage.
We’ll give you the pros and cons to help you decide.
Jolie Varnish (low luster or gloss available)
Water-based varnish is a very hard durable coating.
It is easy to wash down surfaces sealed with water-based varnish.
Brush, roll or spray. We recommend a Jolie flat brush (synthetic bristles) or professional clear coat sprayer for best results.
If any damage to the surface should occur, it is not easy to touch up. That touch up place will be seen and will look repaired unless the entire surface is stripped, taking away all the clear coat and paint, making you refinish from scratch.
You must be very sure handed in applying any clear coat sealers like poly or varnish. Watch out for drips and runs! Do not over brush or the surface will look uneven and dull in areas. Be careful to not be heavy handed or the surface will be cloudy—that is irreversible. Be sure to stir regularly to ensure the flattening agent is evenly dispersed throughout the application. Never shake any clear coat as that produces air bubbles that will remain in your final finish.
Clear Finishing Wax
Easy to apply. Clear wax will not show overlap marks.
Easy to maintain and repair. If any damage to the surface should occur, it can be easily touched up. Remove the wax from the area where the booboo occurred with low odor mineral spirits (use the kind in the metal can, not the “safe” alternative in the plastic container). This will not remove the paint. Re-wax and it’s good as new again in a couple of minutes.
Should the wax wear away in high use areas (flatware drawer front, kitchen table, etc.), it can be re-waxed quickly and easily. How often do you need to re-wax? If the surface looks dull or doesn’t feel as smooth as it once did, try buffing with a buffing brush. If the sheen doesn’t return, it’s time to re-wax. You do not need to do everything, only the areas where the wax has worn down.
Once cured, wax is food safe and non-toxic.
Although wax dries hard, it isn’t as hard or thick as a varnish so you need be aware that there can be some on-going maintenance that you wouldn’t have with a varnish (unless damage occurs).
Keep in mind that colored wax do not touch up easily—you will see overlap marks and where you’ve stopped and started your application. Washing colored waxed surfaces can wear away areas of the colored wax causing the surface to look uneven. Brown and Black wax can transfer onto your clothing as it doesn’t dry as hard as the clear and when warmed (by rubbing for example) can transfer more easily making it not the most practical choice for highly used areas like kitchen tables and cabinets. We don’t personally every recommend colored waxes for high use surfaces such as kitchen cabinets and tables. ONLY use CLEAR WAX for HIGH USE AREAS.
2.4 How do I apply clear wax?
You can apply the wax with a cloth or brush. A cloth will waste up to about 30% wax because it absorbs the wax almost as much as the paint does. This can make it difficult to know how much the cloth is absorbing vs how much your painted piece is absorbing. Corners and detailed areas may be difficult to wax using a cloth as well.
For clear wax, we recommend using a Waxwell™ or Waxine™ wax brush. This is the easiest method and there is almost no waste. The brushes are designed to massage the wax into the paint and do much of the work for you. You are not simply painting the wax on the surface, rather you are rubbing it into the paint with the same pressure you would use if you were rubbing lotion into your skin. No need to work hard or apply strong pressure. Massage it into the paint working in small sections—about one square foot at a time works well. Don’t overwork the wax and spend an excessive amount of time rubbing it in. When you do that, you are buffing the wax in place and leaving too much wax on the surface. And you are working too hard! After massaging the wax into this small area, immediately wipe off the excess using a lint-free cotton towel. We like the Better than Cheesecloth™ towels because they are sturdy and absorbent. The motion is similar to wiping crumbs from a table prior to washing it. You are NOT rubbing back and forth and buffing the wax at this point in the process. Excess wax will absorb into the cloth and/or move onto the next section of the piece to absorb into the paint there.
2.5 How do I apply white wax?
Because the white wax is very creamy and light, if you choose white wax you will apply it directly onto your paint instead of clear wax. You will get the best results if you have a bit of texture and brush strokes in your paint so there is something for the white to grab onto.
2.6 How do I apply the brown wax or black wax?
You can apply the brown or black wax with a cloth or brush. The dark or black wax will always be applied over a layer of clear wax. This can be done right away or at any point down the road. Some people find it easier to apply the brown/black wax over fairly fresh clear wax. Other people find it easier to apply brown/black wax to a clear waxed surface that has been buffed to a nice sheen. Experiment and decide which way you like it! This is an art—not a science. Rarely is there only one right way to do something when it comes to painting and waxing.
Because you are working over a sealed surface, the brown/black wax is applied differently than the clear. You are not massaging the brown/black wax into a surface. The brown/black wax is gliding on the clear wax surface. Our preferred method of application is a Jolie wax brush. The softer looser bristles work great to glide the wax on the surface quickly and easily.
Fleurish Pro Tip: Add just a little bit of mineral spirits to your brown/black wax to make it easier to apply. The brown/black wax should quickly glide across your clear waxed surface. To give you more time to work with it, we like to get our brown/black wax just a little bit looser—making it the consistency of pudding. Don’t overdo it! It isn’t too much that you’ve broken down the wax to the degree that it is mostly mineral spirits (not a “glaze”) and no longer providing protection, it’s only enough to loosen it up a bit. We think you’ll love how much easier it is to control and manipulate! If you have a new tin of wax fill the area between where the wax ends and the top of the tin. Mix slowly with a paint stick until blended throughout. You won't need to add any mineral spirits again unless you leave the lid off for an extended period of time or store it for several years.
2.7 What kind/ brand of wax brush should I use?
For clear and white wax, we recommend using a Waxwell™ or Waxine™ wax brush. This is the easiest method and there is almost no waste. The brushes are designed to massage the wax into the paint and do much of the work for you.
For brown/black wax, we recommend using a Jolie wax brush.
2.8 How should I wash my wax brush? Can I use dish soap or mineral spirits? Or can I just store it in plastic wrap between uses?
First of all, NEVER soak a brush! This can cause irreparable damage and is unnecessary. We don’t recommend grease cutting dish soaps or mineral spirits unless you are in a pinch and those are your only options. The dish soap, in addition to cutting through the wax, also strips away the natural moisture in the hair of your brush. Much like shampooing your hair and skipping the conditioner, your bristles will become dry and brittle leading to excessive breakage and loss. Mineral spirits are harsh and cleaning with soap and water afterward is recommended so why do an extra step?
We recommend Big Fat Lye™ (or the smaller sized Little White Lye) soap. The soap is specially formulated for cleaning your brushes-- it will clean and condition your brush without leaving behind a residue that can later transfer over to your next project. This soap will keep your brush in its best condition. You’ve invested in good brushes—keep them in good shape!
Run your brush under warm water and then over your bar of soap and massage the soap into the bristles to build a lather. Rinse well. If your brush is extra waxy you may need to lather it up twice. Squeeze out all excess water and shake until no more water drips from the brush. Hang or lay on a towel to dry. A free care card containing these instructions is included with every Waxwell™ and Waxine™ purchase. We also care for our Jolie wax and paint brushes and all other natural hair brushes using this same method.
Do not store your brush in plastic between uses. The wax will dry out near the ferrule and leave behind what looks like dandruff on your next project. Washing your brush is so fast and easy! You can even use your brush while it is still slightly damp without issue.
2.9 Do I just need one coat of wax or more?
One coat of wax might be sufficient on most pieces. Take a look at the piece—if the sheen is uneven, you probably need a second coat of wax to even out the application. We prefer doing two coats of wax to ensure even coverage. The second coat goes on twice as fast and really makes the surface feel amazing too! Two coats are always recommended for table tops and cabinets.
2.10 Do I need a lot of wax to protect my cabinets?
Wax should always be used thinly—you will never use “a lot” of wax over Jolie Paint. 2-3 thin coats is ideal for highly used surfaces such as cabinets and kitchen table tops. See our waxing YouTube video for more details. We have several great videos addressing waxing.
2.11 How long between coats of wax?
You can apply additional coats of wax as soon as the previous layer is dry which when applied properly is only a few minutes!
Waxing Jolie Paint is not like waxing your car. It is not a heavy layer that is later buffed off. It is not a topcoat sitting on the surface of the paint rather it is a thin layer that absorbs into the paint much like lotion absorbs into your skin. Applying more than one coat of wax is not done to get a thicker coat of wax rather it is to achieve even absorption. The wax will soak into the areas that need it and move on past the areas that have fully absorbed it already.
2.12 My wax looks streaky—did I use too much wax?
Not necessarily. Most likely, the wax application is just uneven. We recommend using a flat bottom style wax brush like the Waxine™ or Waxwell™ wax brush to apply the wax and immediately wiping off any excess with a Better than Cheesecloth™ towel to get the most even coverage. If it looks streaky, apply a second thin layer of wax. It will absorb where it needs to and move on where it is already fully absorbed into the paint. That typically does the trick.
2.13 How much wax should I use?
The Large tin of clear wax should cover approximately 3-4 quarts worth of paint.
The Small tin of clear wax will cover less than one quart of paint.
White wax is a bit less and the brown and black because they are used over the clear go much further.
2.14 When should I use colored wax? Is colored wax or clear wax better?
Clear wax is the “need it, want it, love it”! Clear wax will give you your protection and must always be used. Brown or Black wax is an optional second layer of wax that will give you a patina--an antiquing or aged effect.
The wax soaks into the absorbent layer of paint which is why you want to use clear to seal it. If you put brown/black wax straight onto the paint, it will stain the paint turning it dark and making it blotchy. So, it isn’t a matter of one being better. Clear wax is your sealer. Brown and black wax are more of a surface treatment and decorative effect. White wax will seal and give you a decorative effect but isn’t as forgiving as clear wax.
2.15 Can I use mineral spirits in my wax?
In a word--Yes!
We don't recommend diluting your clear wax with mineral spirits however we personally prefer to use a bit in our brown and black wax as it will give you more open time to glide the wax around and we find everyone is more successful when they do this.
2.16 Can I use the dark/black wax straight over dark colors like Graphite?
Even over dark colors like Graphite, we still recommend clear wax first. The brown/black wax will bite into the paint and create an uneven blotchy application and is hard to manipulate without a layer of clear on first.
2.17 Do I have to buff my wax?
But don’t confuse buffing with removing excess wax during the application process. When applying wax, excess must be removed immediately. Buffing happens later, after the wax has fully dried—at least an hour, but as long as overnight. Buffing creates a beautiful soft sheen but if more of a matte finish is desired, you do not need to buff.
2.18 What is the difference between buffing and polishing? What is the process?
Buffing and polishing are the same thing—the words are synonyms. This is the process of rubbing wax that has been allowed to dry. Rubbing the wax vigorously helps harden the wax and creates a beautiful sheen. This step is not a requirement but it is recommended for high use surfaces as it does increase the durability of the wax. Buffing/polishing is NOT to be confused with removing excess wax during the application process. That is a different motion and is necessary.
2.19 My wax feels sticky and shows fingerprints. Can I fix it?
Yes! The wax was just applied a bit too heavy-handed. This is common for first time users especially. See the next question for remedy solutions.
2.20 How do I know if I used too much wax? What do I do if I used too much wax?
Your piece should feel dry to touch immediately. If it is tacky, sticky or wet, you’ve used too much wax. If it only a little heavy, allowing extra dry time/cure time may be enough. A little heavier, try buffing vigorously with a buffing brush. A little heavier still? Try a bit of fine sandpaper, 320 or 400 grit. This will warm the wax and the excess will clog up in the sandpaper. Really heavy wax that has remained tacky for more than a couple of days will require mineral spirits to remove the excess. Remember to turn your cloth often and use plenty of cloths. This will remove the wax but not the paint. A new, thin layer of wax may be necessary when you are done.
2.21 What if I apply the dark wax and change my mind? If it’s too dark can I remove the dark wax?
You can do a few different things. As long as you applied a coat of clear wax prior to applying your dark wax (as you should), you can correct it quite easily. If it’s a bit too dark, try using a cloth with the clear wax on it to remove some of the dark wax. The cloth is absorbent and the solvent in the clear wax will “erase” some of the dark wax without removing all the wax layers. If you don’t want any dark wax, mineral spirits can be used to remove it. Wipe off the wax with a cloth soaked in mineral spirits, turning the cloth often and changing cloths often. This will remove both the dark and clear wax so you will probably need to reapply some clear wax when you are done but your paint will remain intact.
3 What kind of paint is Jolie? Is it Chalk Paint or Milk Paint?
3.1 Why did you change from Annie Sloan to Jolie? Is Jolie "chalk paint"?
Why did you change from Annie Sloan?
If you've been with us for a while you probably know that we were one of the first handful of people in the country to use Chalk Paint when it first came on the scene in the US in the late summer of 2010 and the first in the Midwest to stock and sell Annie Sloan selling first under our previous decorative studio business Wallartistry and later as Fleurish Home. Fleurish Home founder Debra Campbell put 100,000 miles on her vehicle driving the state singing the praises of this new paint and recruiting shops to sell it. She became a trainer for the brand teaching the retailers how to use the product as well as teaching hundreds of professional and diy painters.
In November of 2018, Annie Sloan ended her licensing agreement with US paint manufacturer, Davis Paint and moved on to lending her name to a different product from a different manufacturer located in Britain. You can imagine how difficult it was to hear this news with how much we'd invested in the brand. We had to make the decision if we wanted to follow the name and start over with a new paint and having to explain to customers why the color they purchased before with the same name is now a totally different color. How confusing is THAT! (We also tested the UK-made Annie Sloan product and found it didn't behave the same as the paint we had fallen in love with.) Or we could stick with Davis Paint and their new label: Jolie. We chose Jolie. We polled a handful of our most frequent paint purchasers and they agreed. The product was more important than a name. The color names have changed, but all your favorite hues from before have a color match in the Jolie line. Plus new colors we've been asking to have for years and more we didn't even know we needed! The wax has changed and gotten an upgrade--it's now non-hazardous with almost no odor (it smells like an unscented candle) and we find it easier to work with and more durable. We know you'll love Jolie even more.
Is Jolie "chalk paint"?
Any paint with a flat finish seems to be calling themselves "chalk paint" nowadays. It's a trendy term for flat/matte paint just like "vegan leather" is a trendy term for vinyl. And most of these paints (the box store brands for example) are repackaged flat finish latex house paint and overpriced poor quality products. Buyer beware for sure!
Jolie is a high quality durable matte finish paint and we don't like calling it "chalk paint" because high levels of chalk are not a positive attribute. Chalk is a filler that beefs up the volume but inhibits the bonding properties (think chalky ceiling paint that comes right off if you wipe something off the ceiling!) The term has become overused and in our opinion no longer a positive term to use to represent the high quality of the Jolie product.
Jolie has amazing bonding properties and is highly breathable--flexing and moving with the surfaces as they expand and contract due to temperature and humidity changes. You can even paint fabric and it stays soft and flexible! Come in and see for yourself!
3.2 Is Jolie milk paint?
Jolie is not milk paint. Milk paint is a type of paint that has been around for centuries using casein (milk protein), lime and pigments. It comes in powdered form (so-called milk paint sold in liquid form is not real milk paint) and must be mixed with water to create liquid paint. Because it contains milk protein, the paint has a short shelf life once mixed and works best if used the same day. It can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple of days if necessary but isn’t recommended. It has a flat finish and is environmentally friendly. It must be sealed for stability with wax or varnish. Milk paint works best over new wood. If painting over an existing finish, proper prep work is required (sanding at minimum) and a bonding agent should be added to the paint. The results can be somewhat unpredictable sometimes creating a “chippy” finish that mimics old paint chipping off of the surface.
4 Metal Leaf & Gilding Wax
4.1 Do I need to seal my gilding leaf? Do I need to seal my gilding wax?
Metallic leaf should be sealed with either shellac or wax. Clear or colored wax can be used.
Gilding wax is a wax, so no other sealer is needed. If you put another coat of wax on top, the solvent in that wax will remove some or all of the metallic wax. Wax is always the last step in any project: clear, then colored (including metallics).